The Nullarbor crossing is one of the world’s great road trips. It follows the almost 1700km-long Eyre Highway from Port Augusta, SA, in the east to Norseman, WA, in the west, sometimes running right along the edge of the Great Australian Bight.

The name Nullarbor comes from the Latin nullus and arbor, meaning “no tree” (the Aborigines called it Oondiri, meaning “waterless”). The area covered by the theoretically treeless Nullarbor Plain is almost as large as the state of Vic, but at its southern edge, along the highway, the treeless section is fairly short. Much of the Eyre Highway is actually quite densely vegetated.

Many people view the crossing as boring. The country is mostly flat or slightly undulating. The road includes many long straight sections, including the longest straight section of highway in Australia, the 90 Mile Straight. But we have never tired of the crossing, as there is always something different to see.

We travelled from east to west this time, but the prevailing winds are westerly and they can be quite strong, so you’re likely to use far less fuel going from west to east… usually.

OVERNIGHT CAMPS

Overnight roadside camps abound between Ceduna (where the ‘serious’, remote part of the crossing begins) and Norseman. They are designed for travellers who simply wish to pull over and camp before continuing in the morning. The main parking areas for most are well off the road and have rubbish bins. Some have toilets and some even have a roofed area with water supplied, but most have been severely degraded by thoughtless travellers.

It seems that few people have the forethought to pack a small shovel or garden trowel for their trip. As a consequence the campsites often have a distinctive aroma and are surrounded by white tissues fluttering in the breeze. One way to avoid this problem is to follow the tracks that often lead back into the bush behind the main campsite. In this way you can avoid not only the majority of ‘land mines’ but also barking dogs, generators and rowdy social gatherings.

The campsites that boast toilets are often not much better as the toilets themselves are usually degraded and foul smelling and there is still the problem of rubbish scattered about. We have found the best solution is to find a roadside park that has tracks leading back into the bush and camp as far back as possible.

For those who dislike the idea of roadside camping, there are caravan parks at every roadhouse along the way. Some are pretty basic but do provide better amenities than those found by the roadside. Just don’t expect lawned sites under shady trees. Most roadhouses also provide motel rooms and cabins. If you are a light sleeper and are disturbed by the sound of a large generator rattling away all night, try to choose a site as far as possible from the roadhouse – and make sure you’re upwind to avoid the diesel fumes as well as the noise.

HIGHWAY HAZARDS

If you plan to cross the Nullarbor, be sure your vehicle is in good condition. Some folk we know did a gearbox at Cocklebiddy and had to leave their vehicle there, get a bus back to Adelaide, and then return for their 4WD and caravan two weeks later.

One of the main things to remember is: do not drive in the early morning or late afternoon when the wildlife is out feeding. Suddenly seeing a herd of camels galloping across the road in front of you is very traumatic, even more so if you hit one. The stretch of road between Penong and Nundroo west of Ceduna has a large wombat population – we counted 15 recently dead wombats and only one kangaroo here. A large wombat is a very heavy animal and can do serious damage to the underside of your vehicle.

If the country is dry and there are rain showers around, you will often see kangaroos and other wildlife come to the road for a drink, even in the middle of the day.

CEDUNA

The tiny coastal town of Ceduna is a mecca for fishers chasing the best eating fish ever to come out of the sea, the King George whiting. And thanks to the pure, cold seawater, this coast also produces some of the best oysters ever to grace a table. We stayed at the Ceduna Seafront Caravan Park only metres from the jetty and the best pub in town, and enjoyed fishing from the jetty and the ambience of the delightful autumn weather. Many people also pause here after crossing the Nullarbor from the west, or to stock up on rations and rest before tackling the big trip.

PENONG

One little girl we know had never seen a windmill before, and upon seeing paddocks full of them at Penong west of Ceduna, called excitedly to her grandmother to look at all the big sunflowers. The windmills pump water from a shallow aquifer to supply the needs of the townspeople up on the rise. Some even have wheels and can be moved from bore to bore as required.

FOWLERS BAY

About 105km west of Ceduna and 20km south of the highway, Fowlers Bay is a delightful spot to spend a few restful days in the caravan park, do a spot of fishing or simply walk the giant sand dunes that threaten to bury the town. We like to spend a few days simply relaxing and fishing off the jetty; but the more energetic might like to drive around the sand hills to Mexican Hat Bay to chase whiting and salmon, both of which abound in these pristine waters.

HEAD OF BIGHT

During the whale-watching season from late May to early September, it is not unusual to see 30 or more whale cows and their calves from the Head of Bight, a vantage point on the coast east of Nullarbor Roadhouse. Operated by the local Aborigines, this viewing area and interpretive centre is well worth a visit during the season (it is closed outside the season).

Head of Bight is also at the eastern end of the spectacular Bunda Cliffs, which stretch for 200km to the WA border. There are several spots to admire the cliffs and view whales only a few hundred metres south of the highway. But take notice of the signs and do not stray too close to the cliff edge as they consist of very unstable and crumbling rocks.

EUCLA

Only 12km west of the WA border and the Border Village roadhouse is Eucla. It sits atop an escarpment overlooking the Roe Plains. Down on the flat you can see the airfield, and the remains of the old Eucla Telegraph Station which are gradually being claimed by the sand dunes. Another good view of the plains is from the escarpment above Madura Pass, a further 180km to the west.

RARE TREES

The stretch of road from Eucla to Madura Pass is flat with some very lonely sections, and it is here that many folk begin to feel the need to lift the mood of their journey. Due to their efforts some very rare trees now flourish.

The first of these we found a little east of Mundrabilla. It was a very rare glove tree – the only one of its kind known to exist and quite young as it wasn’t there six months earlier. Then we found another rare tree, the bra/knicker tree – a type of tree that is beginning to become common along this stretch of road. Then came the bottlebrush tree – a rare tree that flowers all year with blooms that resemble empty bottles, with an odd brush or two as well.

The boot tree is also beginning to thrive along this stretch of highway, as is the thong tree. There are even a couple of good examples of another new variety, the cap tree. The appliance tree was only discovered in early 2008: much of its fruit resembles electric kettles and jugs, with an odd toaster here and there.

COOCKLEBIDDY AND CAIGUNA

There are some awesome caves you can visit near Cocklebiddy, although you may need a 4WD to get to many of them. But right beside the highway, 5km west of Caiguna, is another cave at the beginning of the 90 Mile Straight. This is a ‘breathing’ cave and at times it can breathe out very strongly: it usually has no trouble streaming a ribbon of toilet paper vertically, but can be much stronger.

BALLADONIA

Back in 1979, space research laboratory Skylab crashed to earth near Balladonia and parts of it scattered far and wide. Balladonia roadhouse has a nice museum dedicated to Skylab and the pioneers of the district as well as the local Aborigines. The roadhouse was erected on this spot to serve travellers to and from the 1962 Empire Games held in Perth.

NORSEMAN

This goldfield town came into existence when Laurie Sinclair found gold on the site. Being from the Shetlands and a proud descendant of the Norse, Laurie always declared himself a Norseman and so the mining town that sprang up was named Norseman in his honour. Here you can turn north for Kalgoorlie and Perth or south to Esperance.

Having crossed the Nullarbor, you will never be the same. It is not just a great road trip but one of life’s great experiences – a trip you will always remember.

By Jim and Cheryl Foster and Tourism WA, as featured in Motorhome World issue 24, January/February 2009.