Broome and Wyndham in far northern WA are some 1100km apart, and caravan parks between the two are limited. Fortunately this very scenic drive is well catered with free offroad camping stops. If your RV is equipped to stay a night or two without power, this is a great way to enjoy the great outdoors over a campfire.

Ellendale Lake

Our first overnight stop was at Ellendale, about 305km east of Broome. Around 7km before reaching Ellendale, a dirt road and a gate on the left-hand side lead to Ellendale Lake, a small body of water on private property. The owner has opened it up to travellers for one-night stays.

RVs have to be self-sufficient as there are only toilet facilities, shelter sheds and barbecues, and if the area is abused, it will be closed. Ellendale is on two levels, and though it is exposed to wind, it’s a pleasant, elevated stopover, suitable for all RVs.

Fitzroy Crossing

On our first two around-Australia trips there was a camping ground at Geikie Gorge, which has now been abandoned due to constant flooding. The best caravan park in the area is the Fitzroy River Lodge.

Geikie Gorge should not be missed. It’s approximately 90km from Ellendale and you can drive directly to the gorge, where there is plenty of parking and turn-around space. Once there, you can take the boat trip up the gorge, or do what we did, and walk up.

The walk takes one to two hours return, depending on how far you wish to go. Once in the gorge, rather than follow the limestone cliffs on the left side, it is possible to cross the sandy gorge floor to the right, where you can see the truly spectacular colours of the gorge walls.

Meanwhile, Fitzroy Crossing has a well-stocked supermarket and fuel stations.

Ngumpan Cliff Lookout

The next stop is Ngumpan Cliff, 95km south-east of Fitzroy Crossing. Toilets and shelter sheds are provided, as well as barbecues, and there’s room for big rigs, with plenty of turn-around space. Bear in mind that the cliff top can be very exposed to wind.

Even if you don’t intend to sleep at Ngumpan Cliff, drop in for a cuppa to admire the vista over the break-away country, with a wonderful array of wildflowers during the winter months.

Mary Pool

Mary Pool is 182km east of Fitzroy Crossing and is probably the best known and most popular overnight stop in the area, so you’ll need to arrive early for a spot overlooking the water. On a previous visit the causeway was covered by 10cm of water and visitors were catching cheribon and fish in the large pool, whereas this time the water was still and the pool was drying fast. Below the causeway are several large swimming holes.

There are toilets, a shelter shed and barbecues, as well as shade trees with room for big rigs, and plenty of turning space.

You can view freshwater crocs here – we’ve seen them on a previous visit and this time we saw two. Look for them on the sandy riverbank nearest the camping area. On a previous visit we were told that there was a large salty here, so you may want to be careful if the pool is full of water and so inviting.

Leycesters Rest, Ord River

From Mary Pool it’s 107km to Halls Creek, where you can refuel and stock up at a supermarket and bakery. The caravan park here is a good place to exchange notes if you’re planning to drive the Tanami or Canning or to visit Purnululu (the Bungle Bungles).

Check Old Halls Creek with its old mud-brick buildings, the China Wall quartz seam and the lovely Caroline Pool.

From Halls Creek it’s just 100km to the Ord River and our next stop, along the way to which are a couple of good lookouts on the way, so take your time and check them.

On the bank of the Ord River is a large overnight rest area with two main campsites; both have toilets and barbecues, as well as seats, tables and shelter sheds. The area on the north-eastern side of the river has been closed. Nonetheless, it’s worth a walk over the old causeway and up the riverbed to the new bridge.

When we were there, a large waterhole contained small fish and there were tracks nearby made by goannas and roos. It’s a lovely place to dangle your feet in the water and just sit.

The Bungle Bungle National Park turn-off is only 7km from the campsite, and some people leave their vans and go into the park for the day.

Spring Creek

Spring Creek rest area is at the turn-off to the Bungle Bungle National Park. This place also has toilets and a shelter shed, but the top area is close to the main highway. The bottom rest area is very pleasant and beside Spring Creek, but has room for only a few vans. This lower area is mostly taken with people who leave their vans while going into the park, so you cannot rely on finding a space here. Our preference would be to stay overnight at Leycesters Rest.

Dunham River

The Dunham River rest area is around 170km north of Spring Creek, on the northern side of the bridge, with a tarred entry road. There are toilets with solar-powered lighting and several sites, all with barbecues and seats, and some with shelter sheds. Big rigs will fit here, and we found it to be very pleasant, although fairly close to the road. Dunham River still had water flowing and could be a good fishing spot. We liked the aspect out to the escarpments and the excellent facilities.

Another rest stop, at Cockburn, right at the junction of the Wyndham and Kununurra Highways, would be very noisy and is not an ideal overnight stop from our point of view.

Maggie Creek

Maggie Creek is 52km from Dunham River and 27km south of Wyndham. The area is quite small with a few level spots, but is picturesque beside Maggie Creek. It looks out over a valley of boab trees to the escarpments and cliffs beyond. There is a shelter shed with seats.

Kimberley fast facts

Broome and Wyndham are around 1100 km apart, and Highway 1 is sealed all the way. Broome to Kununurra is about the same distance.

Must-see attractions are Geikie Gorge, Old Halls Creek and the Bungle Bungles (Purnululu).

Fuel is available at Willare Bridge, Fitzroy Crossing, Halls Creek, Warmun (Turkey Creek) and Doon Doon Roadhouse. Beware: there is no fuel along the 290km between Fitzroy Crossing and Halls Creek.

By Tony and Denyse Allsop, as featured in Motorhome World issue 23, November/December 2009.