Travelling along the Victoria Highway between Katherine, NT, and Kununurra, WA, you pass the Victoria River Roadhouse 196km south-west of Katherine. Most people drive straight past if they don’t stop for fuel or a cuppa, but this time we decided to stop for a few days to view the magnificent scenery and absorb some of the history of the area. We were pleasantly surprised.

VICTORIA RIVER ROADHOUSE

Roy and Teresa Harding own the roadhouse, and made us very welcome. There is a large camping area over several hectares, including powered sites with water connected. Just pay at the bar and then choose a site. There is plenty of space between sites and you may park your RV in any direction to take advantage of shade or breeze. All types and sizes of rigs will fit in here. They have motel units and cabins too.

While this appears to be a campsite away from towns and hordes of people, we still had two TV channels, but no GSM or wireless broadband reception.

Since our last visit, there were new toilets, handbasins and mirrors in the amenity blocks, and the new toilet paper dispensers contained two-ply paper. A second block is in the planning stage.

The camping area has a short walk leading to the Victoria River, where you can fish from the riverbank. We caught black bream and catfish, but we saw another angler catch a good barramundi under the bridge.

Beware of crocs, though: we saw a small saltie under the bridge, so there must be bigger ones around.

The roadhouse is licensed and serves meals. Telephones, fuel and limited supplies are available, and the fuel is significantly cheaper than at Timber Creek, the next stop to the west.

We were visited by many birds at our site, including barking owls at night. These can be found right through the Kimberley area but they are common here. Sometimes they sit in the tree over your camp site and they sound just like a dog.

The escarpments surrounding the roadhouse are stunning, and glow at sunrise and sunset. The area is in the eastern section of Gregory National Park, known for its spectacular gorge and range scenery. (The larger, western section of the park lies south of Timber Creek, which is 160km further along the highway to the west.)

WALKS

Many times as we are driving along, we wish we could climb up onto an escarpment to take in the view. In this area, it is possible to do so, and also to walk along the base of an escarpment right beside the rock wall. Our favourite walk is the Escarpment Walk, about 2km west of the roadhouse. There is plenty of room here to park your vehicle. It is one of the very few escarpments that you can climb, and while not easy (it’s classed as “moderate”), you should have no trouble with a fair level of fitness. It took us about an hour return. Explanatory signs are found at various points on this walk.

The view of the Victoria River and the highway running around the base of the escarpment was well worth the climb. There are amazing views most of the way up, so even if you do not do the whole climb, you will still be able to take good memories and pictures home. There is also a great view of the roadhouse and campground from the summit.

The Joe Creek Walk and picnic area is another favourite. Located about 8km west of the roadhouse, this walk comprises a 1.7km loop, returning via the valley floor. It combines a short climb (moderate to difficult) up a steep, rocky slope to the base of the escarpment, and then along the towering red wall amongst Livistona palms, spinifex and low bush. There are good views of the escarpments on the other side. The walk along the wall is easy and leads to some excellent examples of Aboriginal art, including one of a turtle, snake and fish, which must have been their staple foods in this area.

Morning is the best time for both walks. Park rangers give talks and conduct walks in the area through the winter – the roadhouse has brochures and all details.

VICTORIA RIVER GORGE

Take the road just past the roadhouse to the left. You can leave your vehicle near the boat ramp and walk a fair way along the riverbank under huge paperbark trees. This is a great place for a picnic, quiet and grassy with a backdrop of wonderful red escarpments. Here is also a good place to fish, both from a boat or off the bank. One of the roadhouse employees frequently came back with barramundi but would not divulge his spot!

We were told that a recent count of freshwater crocodiles in Victoria River Gorge showed dramatically reduced numbers, and unusually large numbers of dead reptiles have been found too. An autopsy on one showed a dozen cane toads in its stomach. We have also heard that numbers of hawks (especially black kites) and northern king brown snakes are also falling. Both of these consume toads as well, whereas the taipan does not, and its population is being maintained. What an ecological disaster the cane toad continues to be as it increases its range.

A few years ago the roadhouse ran boat tours up this gorge, but they do not operate now. However, helicopter flights over the gorges and escarpments are available from beside the roadhouse during the winter tourist season.

OLD VICTORIA RIVER CROSSING

The old river crossing is signposted and is about 5km west of the roadhouse. There is a turning area at the end of the road, but the last 100m down to the river is for 4WD vehicles only.

We found this to be a fascinating place, with its backdrop of ranges and escarpments, and the remains of the old concrete causeway. This is another top picnic area where you could easily spend a couple of hours. The local rangers told us there is good fishing here.

JACK ABSALOM

You never know whom you may meet in these quiet spots. One morning there were only two of us in the camping area. The fellow in the other van wandered up and introduced himself as Jack Absalom, the well-known painter, author, speaker and TV personality. We had a long chat, and after meeting his wife, Mary, he swapped two of his books for the latest copy of CW. Jack and Mary were here to do some painting, so look out for new paintings of the Victoria River in his Broken Hill gallery.

We found Victoria River Roadhouse to be a very quiet and peaceful spot, with fishing for barra and black bream just a short walk from your campsite. Park rangers request fishing with lures only as bait can catch turtles and crocodiles.

VICTORIA RIVER ROADHOUSE

Victoria River Roadhouse lies 196km south-west of Katherine in the NT, at PMB 128 via Katherine, NT 0852, (08) 8975 0744, fax (08) 8975 0819.

All types and sizes of rigs can fit here, and dogs are allowed on approval.

For information about Gregory National Park, visit www.nt.gov.au/nreta/parks/find/gregory.html

By Tony and Denyse Allsop, as featured in Caravan World issue 467, July 2009.