Our first trip to Darwin was in March 1975, as part of the relief team after Cyclone Tracy. Denyse had a position as a casualty medical officer, while I went to open a wholesale hardware outlet. The weather was hot and humid with frequent thunderstorms, but we were young and full of enthusiasm.

The road in was blocked by armed police, and only those with passes were allowed in. The city was in ruins, and it is sad to now look through our old photos and films. Nowadays you would not recognise it as the same place.

This trip we decided to stop along the way at Batchelor Resort Caravillage Tourist Park about 100km south of Darwin, and see Litchfield National Park from there. We have found that you can see most of Litchfield in a full day, including a swim and picnic lunch at Buley Rockhole. The caravan park is very pleasant, with lush grass, concrete slabs and palm trees. There is a licensed restaurant and bird feeding twice a day.

We also spent a couple of days at Berry Springs Lakes Resort Caravan Park 62km south of Darwin, where there is a huge water slide and a couple of artificial lakes. It is close to the Berry Springs thermal pools (make sure you have a swim under the warm waterfall) and the Territory Wildlife Park. The caravan park has drive-through sites, and a licensed restaurant operates through the winter.

SHADY GLEN TOURIST PARK

Darwin in winter is a real holiday town. The temperature for the three weeks we were there in July ranged from 18-20°C at night to 30-32°C during the day. Eat your hearts out, southerners!

We stayed at Shady Glen Tourist Park, a Top Tourist Park, which is quite close to the city. Through the tourist season, it arranges events including sausage sizzles, toad races and other entertainment. Buses take guests to the Mindil Beach markets and the Stokes Hill Wharf for dinner, and a free bus to and from the casino is also available.

The lessees, Peggy and Des Evans, have decided not to renew their lease from 2009. After running the park for 12 years and building it up with new amenity blocks and many new sites, they intend to join the ranks of the grey nomads and travel. It will be interesting to see what the park will be like on our next visit.

NATURAL ATTRACTIONS

Darwin has several natural attractions, such as a walk along beautiful Casuarina Beach and Coastal Reserve. You may also visit the Dripstone Cliffs nearby, which are a mixture of vivid red, black, yellow and white sandstone.

The Darwin surf lifesaving club is based here, and if you walk the length of the beach to Lee Point you pass the ‘clothes optional’ beach. Several fishermen were pulling in whiting along this stretch, and we saw some interesting pencil shells.

Another good place to view the colourful cliffs is at Fannie Bay near the yacht club. Walk along the beach and you will find a flat rock ledge that will take you into little coves in these fascinating cliffs.

Fig trees were clinging to the cliff face, while kites and an osprey wheeled overhead. Colourful bee eaters dived on insects from the safety of the fig trees.

Fannie Bay also has a swimming beach, and behind this is Lake Alexander, a salt-water, safe swimming lake that is very popular with visitors at all times of the year. This lake is stinger free and has plenty of small fish to attract the attention of children. A 1.6km mangrove boardwalk leads from the car park.

Also at Fannie Bay is the infamous Fannie Bay Jail, opened in 1883 and closed in 1979.

MARKETS

There are many markets during winter. Mindil Beach is famous for sunsets and night markets on Thursday and Sunday, with around 250 stalls plus 50 food stalls representing 25 countries. Our favourite is the Road Kill Café which boasts, “You kill it, we grill it,” and specialises in local Australian tucker – crocodile, buffalo, camel, emu and kangaroo.

Another popular market is at Parap on Saturday mornings, with produce as well as local craft and scrumptious crab omelettes.

THE WAR YEARS

East Point Reserve is a monument to the days when Darwin was bombed in WWII. Many of the army reinforcements still stand in this 200ha reserve and may be inspected close up. They are all signposted and there are walking tracks and plenty of parking. The War Museum is here too. A picnic area has fine views over Darwin and is another great place to view the magic sunsets.

Charles Darwin National Park is not far from Shady Glen, and here you may see several WWII ammunition bunkers, plus read about the history of Darwin during the war years. Did you know there were over 63 air attacks on Darwin?

The park was developed to highlight the rich mangrove habitats and has a pleasant picnic area overlooking the city. Several walks start from here.

DINING OUT

Dinner on Stokes Hill Wharf is a Darwin institution. This is open-air dining at its best. Get there early and you can see the sun set, then the moon rise.

The jetty is still a working jetty but is full of tables and chairs, and cafes serve anything from barra and salad to Asian food.

Our favourite restaurant, though, is the Sunset Restaurant at Sky Casino, which overlooks the wet edge pool and glorious sunsets. The magnificent seafood buffet is great value, and you’ll need to book – (08) 8943 8940.

The wharf precinct now has an impressive convention centre. Visit the local trawlers at Fisherman’s Wharf to buy fresh fish, or view the old WWII oil storage tunnels nearby.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS

On the cliffs above the wharves lies the city and esplanade – a good place to park the car, with shade, three-hour parking, a great esplanade for walking or picnicking, and only one block from the city centre. The Mall in Smith Street is a great place for souvenirs. Casuarina Square shopping complex is huge, with several chain supermarkets.

Darwin Botanic Gardens covers 42ha and includes over 400 species of palms, plus a self-guided Aboriginal plant-use walk. The museum holds many unusual exhibits, particularly in the maritime section. Both have free entry.

Close to the city is Cullen Bay. This marina has a system of locks to keep the water at a constant level. It is the departure point for the Mandorah ferry, sunset and other cruises and contains up-market cafes and restaurants. You can drool over many expensive homes and watercraft here.

Every July, Darwin hosts the beer can regatta. The many interesting craft made from beer cans, and all capable of sailing, are judged in the morning, and then it’s on to the water at Mindil Beach for the fun stuff!

Make sure you allow enough time to enjoy this modern, cosmopolitan and easy-going city.

DARWIN

Darwin is a relaxed tropical city of over 100,000 people. It was rebuilt after being destroyed by bombing in WWII and again after Cyclone Tracy.

For tourist information on Darwin and the Top End, visit www.tourismtopend.com.au

WHERE WE STAYED

• Shady Glen Tourist Park is rated at 3.5 stars, and is just 10km north-east of the city centre on the corner of the Stuart Highway and Farrell Crescent, Winnellie, (08) 8984 3330, www.shadyglen.com.au
  
• Batchelor Resort Caravillage, a Big 4 park, is rated at 3.5 stars and is on Rum Jungle Road in Batchelor, (08) 8976 0166, www.batchelor-resort.com
  
• Berry Springs Lakes Resort Caravan Park is rated at 3.5 stars and is off Cox Peninsula Road, Berry Springs, (08) 8988 6277, www.lakesresortcaravanpark.com.au
  
  

By Tony and Denyse Allsop, as featured in Caravan World issue 465, May 2009.