Each morning Denyse and I were woken by birds chirping, combined with the lapping of gentle waves on the shore: a very relaxing way to start the day.

Cape Hillsborough Nature Resort is owned and run by the Shulkins family, headed by Robyn and Bill, assisted by their daughter and her husband. Being a family business, this is very ‘hands-on’ and the Shulkins family have a good knowledge of the animals and wildlife in the area as well as its history.

NATIVE FAUNA

About two years ago the owners were appointed as Australian Animals Care and Education (AACE) members, and a section of the park has been put aside for the care and rehabilitation of wildlife. You can see orphaned agile wallabies being cared for. A group of older wallabies are often seen on the beach about sunrise.

Around the park you will see scrub turkeys, orange-footed scrub fowl and a huge variety of birds. This area is also home to a couple of non-poisonous carpet snakes, and Bill told us he has seen some massive specimens (we saw none when we visited, however). In the hoop pine above our site an osprey had built a nest, and large black butterflies were feeding on the surrounding bushes.

THE RESORT

Cape Hillsborough Nature Resort has a variety of accommodation, from motel units overlooking the bay to several types of cabins (all air-conditioned) and powered and un-powered RV sites. Many powered sites have concrete slabs, and a few are drive-through.

An area for campers adjoins the beach, and some of these sites have power as well. A new camp kitchen has been built here and there are several free barbecues around the caravan sites.

Bill and Robyn allow small campfires at some sites, but ask first. All wood must be brought in.

There are three amenities blocks. These are old but clean and adequate. A new laundry has been built and also a resort-style pool complete with flowing water features.

The shop stocks ice and bait, and gas refills are available. There’s a reading lounge, a book exchange and a conference room. A dump point is also provided.

An internet cafe and recreation room adjoin the office. The large shaded outdoor eating area is very attractive and there is a licensed bar. Dinner may be ordered on Friday and Saturday evenings. Take-aways are available every day till 5pm.

Boats may be launched from the hard sand beside the resort or from the two launching ramps at nearby Seaforth.

We found TV reception to be excellent, but mobile phone reception was poor in the resort. Phone reception was good at the resort entrance, however, and at the public car park just outside.

WHAT TO DO

Much of the charm of this place lies in the national park and the beaches.

As there are no houses nearby, you share the beach only with other guests and the few day-trippers. At the northern end, past some very unusual volcanic rock forms, lies another beach known as Beachcomber Cove. This is well named, and you could find all manner of things washed up. There was a wrecked fishing dory on the rocks when we arrived.

About two-thirds of the way along Beachcomber Cove is a small stream. If this has any water in it, walk up the rocky creek bed about 60-80m and you will find a delightful, clear, small swimming hole with a waterfall trickling into it.

Cape Hillsborough National Park is of volcanic origin and was formed 30 million years ago, making it fairly recent geologically. It covers 816ha and the fertile soil allows five different types of forest to grow here. Rhyolite boulders are found on the headlands, while rocky escarpments and eroded volcanic cones provide stunning photo opportunities.

WALKING TRACKS

There are several walking tracks close to the resort. Our favourite is Hidden Valley, which includes the Yuibera (also spelled Yuipera) plant trail at the rear of the resort. Take your vehicle or walk the 1.2km to the start of the track. Vegetation starts with open forest leading into a pocket of rainforest beside the ocean and a billabong which fills after rain. This 1.5km walk has signs explaining the different trees and uses the names that local Aboriginal tribes had for them. The remains of an old Aboriginal fish trap are also visible.

Just offshore lies Wedge Island which has a walkable causeway at half tide. The fishing is good here, and there are plenty of oysters – but remember, in Qld you must eat oysters where you pick them; it is an offence to take them away.

Another good walk (2.6km return) begins at the beach at the southern end of the caravan park. This takes you past caves (bats roost in some of them) and up to the top of the hill to Andrews Point, where there are magnificent views. The track continues on and down to the beach beside the causeway.

At the northern end of Cape Hillsborough beach is another walk leading over the hill to Beachcomber Cove (1.6km return). If it has rained, you’ll pass a small waterfall and swimming hole on this walk.

The Diversity Boardwalk begins about 2km back along the road leading to the resort. There is a large car park provided, but no toilets.

The track starts in melaleuca woodland and then enters a mangrove community, returning via open eucalypt forest and a thicket of grass trees and vines. You also pass a large midden (Aboriginal feasting place, consisting mainly of sea shells). This area has particular significance to the local Yuibera Aborigines and is also signposted. It is a good idea to take insect repellent on this walk.

On the beach you will notice the intricate patterns in the sand made by the sand bubbler crabs, contrasting with the unusual volcanic rock formations. Look around these rocks for pools containing small fish and crabs. The kids will love exploring these pools.

GOOD FISHING

We were told that the fishing is fair from the beach and good from Wedge Island, where you will find oysters. Main catches appear to be bream, flathead and salmon, with whiting also taken. If you have a tinnie, there are several small reefs and islands just offshore.

Cape Hillsborough Nature Resort can be heavily booked in the Christmas school holidays and June to September, but outside these times, especially from March to May and October/November, the weather is normally good and you may just have the beach and walks to yourself.

Better still, you may also have a choice of the best sites and have the luxury of not sharing the resort swimming pool with anyone else!

Cape Hillsborough Nature Resort

The three-and-a-half star Cape Hillsborough Nature Resort lies in the middle of Cape Hillsborough National Park, and is 43km north-west of Mackay in North Qld via a sealed road – turn right at “the Leap” 20km north of Mackay and follow the signs. The owner/managers live on site. No domestic pets allowed.

For more information, phone (07) 4959 0152, or visit www.capehillsboroughresort.com.au

By Tony and Denyse Allsop, as featured in Caravan World issue 464, April 2009.