We made our way from the Qld/NT border along the Barkly Highway to Three Ways, NT, where the Barkly meets the Stuart Highway leading up to Darwin. Our destination for the night was Banka Banka Station campground at Banka Banka Station, 70km north of Three Ways and 94km north of Tennant Creek.

BANKA BANKA CAMPGROUND

We were surprised at the lush green, grassy sites. They were all unpowered but each site had clear, clean spring water connected. We learned that the bore is only 14ft (4.3m) deep and supplies the whole cattle station.

The amenities, showers and toilets were clean, and there was a separate disabled block plus a laundry. Other facilities included a camp kitchen, eating area, dishwashing facilities and a licensed kiosk, as well as barbecues. Controlled pets were welcome.

Banka Banka was established in 1885 by Thomas Nugent, a member of the Ragged 13, the Territory’s equivalent of bushrangers. The packed-mud homestead was built in the 1920s and restored in 2002, and is now the office and bar (yes, the beer is cold). A TV and a book exchange are also located here, while a museum is at the rear.

There are two TV channels, but we had no reception on wireless broadband or 3G phone.

We climbed up on to the ridge behind the campground to get a great view of the camp and surrounding area. Later we visited the waterhole 2km from the campground. Because of the drought, the water was low, but the rock formation behind the pool was very impressive. There are plans to run a pipe from a nearby bore to the top of the rock, to keep the pool full for swimming all year round. The managers put on a half-hour slide show about station life each evening, entertainingly narrated by Fiona, the campground manager, who calls a spade a spade. This was followed by a demonstration of whip cracking and water divining, and we were offered a chance to try both. Kids will love the tame animals wandering around. We saw goats, calves, a donkey, roos and many birds.

Across the road, still on Banka Banka property, is a WWII site and you will see many such sites along the length of the Stuart Highway.

Our visit to Banka Banka was a highlight. The campground was already partly filled during the day, so it may pay to phone ahead in the busy months.

NORTH OF BANKA BANKA

Have a break at the stop off the road near Newcastle Waters, around 160km north of Banka Banka. Look out over the vast Mitchell grass plains and take time to read the signs explaining the exploration of the area. About 3km further on is the ghost town of Newcastle Waters, definitely worth a visit. Check the bird life on the lagoons and the causeway. Note the remains of the two old petrol hand pumps and the Junction Hotel and Jones’ shop. The drovers’ memorial is in the park as you drive in. There is a small picnic area here too, with a sign depicting the history of this place.

Daly Waters is around 90km further on, and the old Daly Waters pub is well known for its memorabilia, its beef and barra meals and nightly entertainment. There is a campground next to the pub, and WWII air hangar and other historic sites nearby.

Larrimah is a further 81km on, with a worthwhile historic pub and a WWII museum at the old police station.

TERRITORY MANOR

Our overnight stop was at the Territory Manor Motel and Caravan Park at Mataranka, 105km south of Katherine. Although listed as a 2.5-star park, we feel it is better than this. All sites are watered and were grassed when we called. The ensuite sites have green shade cloth matting to step out on: much cooler than a concrete slab in this climate. Almost all sites are shaded by huge trees, and have power and water to the site. There is a large camping area and big rigs are easily accommodated.

The amenities are basic but clean: the owners put a lot of money and effort into keeping the calcium build-up from the water under control. Showers have hooks and a bench, and there is plenty of hot water. There is also a good laundry.

Barbecues are popular, as is the licensed open-air restaurant where barramundi is a speciality. In fact, they claim it is the best barramundi lunch in the world! We certainly agree there is no fish better than fresh, wild-caught barramundi, perfectly grilled, as this was.

The motel is unique in this area, being constructed of rammed earth and local timber. The caravan park ensuites are stuccoed with the same red earthy colour to continue this theme.

There is a resort pool and a large separate spa, both sparkling clean when we called. TV reception was good too, as was wireless broadband and 3G phone.

This is a wildlife and bird sanctuary, and we saw pet donkeys, wallabies, peacocks and a large variety of other birds. The owners have plans to create a walking track to a billabong at the rear of the property for birdwatchers.

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BARRA FEEDING

A major attraction at Territory Manor is the free barra feeding at 9.30am and 1pm. In the waterhole beside the kiosk are several huge barramundi, and Max, the park owner, hand-feeds them pilchards. As they take the bait, he grabs them by the lower jaw and lifts them clear of the water. If you are game, he then gets you to try. This is one heck of an experience and it takes lightning-quick reflexes to succeed!

We certainly enjoyed our three days at Territory Manor as well as the company of the friendly owners, Mandy and Max Smith.

MATARANKA

Mataranka is known for its spring-fed thermal pools, and Territory Manor is just a short distance from the Bitter Springs thermal pool, our favourite swimming spot in the area.

You can enter the water at one landing and swim or be taken by the slow current down to the next. There is a pleasant walk around the Bitter Springs area through palms and forest, and a swim during the walk is great. Changing sheds and toilets are near the car park.

The Mataranka thermal pool is a few kilometres away at Mataranka Homestead. Visit the replica of Jeannie Gunn’s old homestead nearby. She wrote the well-known book, We of the Never Never, during her time on Elsey Station. The graves of her husband and some others mentioned in the book are in the local cemetery.

Elsey National Park is just east of here, and there are several good walks, including our favourite, the botanical walk where you will see mangrove ferns growing in fresh water. There is a national park campground further on at the Roper River, and a boat ramp.

The township is small, having a population of only about 300, but facilities are good.

BANKA BANKA

Banka Banka Station campground is along the Stuart Highway 94km north of Tennant Creek, (08) 8964 4511, bankabankastn@bigpond.com, www.barklytourism.com.au/Default.aspx?tabid=95

TERRITORY MANOR

Territory Manor Motel and Caravan Park is at 51 Martins Road, Mataranka, NT 0852, (08) 8975 4516, www.matarankamotel.com

Mataranka itself is 105km south of Katherine.

By Tony and Denyse Allsop, as featured in Caravan World issue 464, April 2009.