The first thing that strikes visitors to Tassie’s capital is its beautiful setting. The next is its compact historic centre on the west bank of the River Derwent, which is easily explored on foot. Its many fine Georgian buildings and old stone cottages and terraces, the welcoming pubs and excellent restaurants and cafes, along with the attractive, bustling harbour, clean air, relaxed pace of life and many festivities throughout the year make this a very pleasant place to be.

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The stunning backdrop of Mount Wellington (1270m, often snow-capped in winter) shields Hobart from the prevailing westerlies, making it the driest capital city in Australia after Adelaide and Canberra. Even so, the weather can change very quickly, and if you go up the mountain to take in the magnificent view of Hobart and the Derwent, it’s not unusual to spot different weather patterns from suburb to suburb.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Apart from the obligatory trip up Mount Wellington, highlights in and around town include the following:

• Battery Point – The original town centre of Hobart on the south side of Sullivans Cove is a delightful place for a wander. Established in the 1830s by whalers and seafarers, the narrow streets, restored cottages and flower-filled gardens are a photographer’s dream, and there are plenty of scrumptious cafes where you can take a break and soak up the atmosphere.
  
• Salamanca Markets – Every Saturday Australia’s most vibrant market comes to life. It is the best place to snag unique Tas woodwork, pottery and art, or try a smoked oyster pie and other Tassie treats.
  
• Cascade Brewery – Take a tour of Australia’s oldest surviving brewery, nestled in the shadow of Mount Wellington. The $20 cost ($15 concessions) is well worth it. Bookings are essential on (03) 6224 1117.
  
• Cadbury Chocolate Factory – You don’t have to be a chocoholic to enjoy a visit to this working chocolate factory on the outskirts of Hobart, and the best news is you won’t leave empty-handed! It costs $5 for adults, $3.50 for children 12 years and under, and bookings are essential on 1800 627 367.
  
• Mount Wellington Descent – If you fancy a bit of soft adventure, Tassie-style, you can’t go past a mountain-bike trek down Mount Wellington. Tailor-made for tourists with limited biking or off-road experience, there is an optional off-road retreat into Mount Wellington’s forest, and the $75 trip includes a well-deserved morning tea and group photo. Contact Island Cycle Tours on 1800 064 726, www.islandcycletours.com

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WHERE TO STAY

Hobart is probably the friendliest capital city for out-of-towners to set up camp. There are plenty of places close to the city, combining bush settings with views of the serene Derwent. And further away from the city lights, parks on the outskirts of Hobart are perfect for when you arrive late and just want somewhere convenient to stop for the night. Try the following:

• Barilla Holiday Park – Bright and breezy, this 3.5-star Big 4 Holiday Park about midway between the city and the airport has it all. 75 Richmond Road, Cambridge, (03) 6248 5453, www.barilla.com.au
  
• Seven Mile Beach Cabin & Caravan Park – With a combination of city convenience and beach access, this three-star park is next to the airport, close to the city and five minutes to the beach. 12 Aqua Place, Seven Mile Beach, (03) 6248 6469, www.comfycabins.com.au
  
• Elwick Cabin & Tourist Park – Just north of the city, this tranquil, 3.5-star holiday park in a splendid parkland setting has a range of cabins and some powered sites, but it’s best to phone ahead to check size, as sites are on the small side. 19 Goodwood Road, Goodwood, (03) 6272 7115, www.islandcabins.com.au/hobart
  
• Treasure Island Caravan Park – Just 10 minutes south of Hobart, this 3.5-star park on the Derwent with magnificent views of Mount Wellington is a real find. It’s also conveniently located next to a bowls club for the evening meal. 1 Alcorso Drive, Berriedale, (03) 6249 2379, email treasureislandhobart@netscape.net.au
  
• New Norfolk Caravan Park – This down-to-earth, three-star park, 30 minutes north-west of Hobart and within striking distance of rugged Mount Field NP, is perfect for those seeking a bush experience. Located by the riverbank and sheltered by weeping willows, it’s a lovely, 10-minute walk into the historic New Norfolk township (where you’ll have to go for supplies). The Esplanade, New Norfolk, (03) 6261 1268, email vickev55@hotmail.com
  
• Richmond Cabin & Tourist Park – A 30-minute drive north-east of Hobart, this four-star park is a great base for both Hobart and Richmond, one of Tas’s most charming historic towns. 48 Middle TeaTree Road, Richmond, (03) 6260 2192, http://richmondcabins.com

By Rob Van Driesum and Julie Ihle, as featured in Motorhome World issue 24, January/Februrary 2009.