Rainbow Valley

Nothing can quite prepare you for its majesty – it has to be seen to be believed.
A conservation reserve under the control of the Parks & Wildlife Commission of the Northern Territory, Rainbow Valley is most easily reached by turning off to the east from the Stuart Highway, 77km south of Alice Springs. From here, the picturesque valley lies 22km east along an earth-formed dirt track, which is usually in quite reasonable condition. Along the way there are great examples of Central Australian fl ora: desert oaks, acacias, daisies and desert grevilleas. Although a 4WD vehicle is not required to reach Rainbow Valley (except after rain), it is generally comforting to have one out here, particularly if you are going on to Chambers Pillar. Camper trailers are fi ne for Rainbow Valley, but caravans are not recommended.

The spectacular sandstone cliffs of the main Rainbow Valley formation stand right on the edge of a claypan, which extends over a kilometre in length from near the park boundary. In earlier years the access track to the campsite was across sections of this claypan, but in recent times it has been completely fenced off by the NPWS. Driving on any part of the claypan is now prohibited – after heavy rain it fi lls with water, giving some excellent refl ections of the jagged cliffs behind it.

There is no question that this isolated place is breathtaking. Visitors to this part of the world cannot help but feel privileged as the beauty of this magical breakaway country unfolds before them. It is a hushed corner of Australia, well away from the slightest sign of hustle and bustle – a great place to ‘call your own’, even if it’s just for a few hours or a few days. It is sure to be a time you will long remember.

The dramatic, rocky outcrops that make up the free-standing Rainbow Valley formations, estimated to be around 350 million years old, are part of the James Range in Central Australia.

The vivid multi-coloured bands in these formations are caused by laterisation, a process whereby underground iron oxide is dissolved by water and then drawn to the surface and higher rock levels by capillary action.



Generally the colours extend from the rusty, deep-red, iron-rich layers (limonite rich zone – iron oxide) at the top of the cliffs down to underlying layers of yellow and orange (less iron) and then to soft, bleached-white sandstone (containing very little iron) at the base of the outcrops. The dark red capping is quite hard and weathers slowly, whereas the softer, white sandstone lower on the cliff weathers quickly, breaking up into loose sand at the base. The erosion of the sandstone over millions of years, particularly when this entire area was a lot wetter and more tropical than it is today, has been responsible for the valley outline as we now see it, with many jagged ‘sawtooth-like’ bluffs and cliffs, eroded caverns and strangely formed square towers. This is fragile country, and one can only imagine that in a few million years’ time it will look quite different from the way it is seen today. In its own inimitable way, nature has produced some exquisite patterns and shapes here, which take on life-like resemblances, including the Lions Head, the Phantom and Mushroom Rock.

From both the campsite and vantage points on nearby sand dunes, visitors often watch, spellbound, as the rainbowcoloured bands and the shadows and shapes on the cliff face continually change before their eyes – very gradually at fi rst, and then more rapidly late in the day. Its real splendour, however, is in the last few minutes after the sun has actually disappeared; the cliffs still glow in a rich, refl ected light that spills over onto the claypan, changing its normally dull clay colour to a faint, warm orange. Once the light has gone, the rocky outcrop takes on a sombre appearance and then becomes an eerie silhouette against the night sky. By day a laborious climb to the top of the outcrop through heavy sand at the back of the range is defi nitely worth the effort. From this high vantage point in the jagged sawtooth section of the mesa, a splendid view of the claypan, campsite and surrounding countryside is the perfect reward.

In this quiet, peaceful part of Australia’s Red Centre there is another group of visitors to the camping area – a number of resident dingoes. They are seldom actually seen, but their footprints found in the sand close to campsites in the mornings reveal how close they come in overnight from the bush looking for food! The entire region south of Alice Springs is notable for its bizarre formations, of which Chambers and its companions, as well as Rainbow Valley, are only a part. From high vantage points in the area, other pyramid-shaped hills and odd sandstone outcrops seem to spring out of the fl at, open landscape as far as the eye can see. Visitors can be guaranteed almost perfect solitude, but when it comes time to leave, many fi nd it diffi cult to wrench themselves away from these exquisite places. Once you experience them for yourself, you will understand why!

CHAMBERS PILLAR/RAINBOW VALLEY FAST FACTS The camping areas at both Rainbow Valley and Chambers Pillar, which are kept clean, neat and tidy, are quite basic: only fireplaces, gas barbecues, a pit toilet and information shelter. Visitors and campers to these areas must be fully self-suffi cient: bring all food, water and other supplies. All firewood should be collected along the way and be brought in to the campsites. Accommodation out here is bush camping only. A small camping fee applies at both campsites. There is pleasant bush walking – into the hills and ridges and in the rocky slopes behind Rainbow Valley, there is evidence of Aboriginal rock shelters, ochre paintings and ancient engravings (petroglyphs). Carry plenty of drinking water at all times. Nearest fuel is at Maryvale Station and Alice Springs. The best months to visit are from May to October. Daytime temperatures are usually in the mid- to late-20s, rising to early 30s by October.

 

Night temperatures are usually cold, quite often dropping to around 0°C to 5°C.

Summer daytime temperatures can rise well into the 40s and travellers are warned they must be fully prepared for hot desert conditions.

No animals or firearms are allowed into these areas.

Roads into these areas can be closed due to rain.
Current road conditions are available from the NT Emergency Service – phone the Alice Springs office on (08) 8952 3833.

Commercial tours are available – contact Alice Springs Tourist Centre on (08) 8952 1299.

For further information contact the Parks and Wildlife Commission of the Northern Territory, phone (08) 8951 8211 or Alice Springs Tourist Centre, (08) 8952 1299.

As featured in Caravan World issue 416, April 2005 - Words and Pictures by Colin Kerr