Some of us may remember learning in history class about Trial Bay Gaol in NSW. It’s a place Denyse and I have wanted to visit for some time. We were in the area, so we booked into South West Rocks Tourist Park, which is only 6km from the gaol.

On our arrival, park owners Richard and Kathryn Emerson made us very welcome and introduced us to their son, Earl, and his partner, Haley. Earl and Haley are the park’s managers, but were on their way out fishing in their new boat when we met them. They asked us if we would like a short tour of the local waterways. As old boaties we love being on the water and jumped at the chance.

Earl and Haley took us up the Macleay River to Stuarts Point, past oyster leases and several people fishing, then back down to the river mouth. We noticed many spots on the river bank worth investigating for fishing.

Back at the park, Richard pointed out the local attractions and explained future plans, which included more powered sites in the camping area and heating for the large, resort-style pool.

The park, a Top Tourist Park, is situated on the bank of a tranquil inlet, leading out to Trial Bay. The waterfront sites have a lush, mown grassy area shaded by trees between them and the inlet, ideal for children’s games or sitting quietly to watch the birds.

There is a boat ramp adjacent. It is possible to fish right in front of your site, but there were a lot of cobia, mackerel and bonito being caught off the beach. I couldn’t wait to get out there.

Many sites have slabs for awnings, some also have slabs for your caravan. Power, water and sullage are provided, and TV connections are being progressively added. We found the TV, CDMA and mobile wireless broadband reception to be good, though we did need to use our wireless broadband antenna.

There is a large unpowered area, which is secluded, but the owners are going to add power to some of the sites for campers who like their TV or lights. Large motorhomes and fifth wheelers would fit in here.

Other accommodation includes various types of cabins and villas. The pool has had a timber decking built around it and is a great place to relax. Beside this is a games room with a pool table, table tennis tables, lounges, tables and chairs and a separate TV room with an Internet kiosk. A public phone is outside and the office sells ice and LPG.

Other facilities include covered barbecues, picnic areas on the river bank, a children’s playground and a camp kitchen with locked fridge and pantry (get the key from reception). The amenities are modern and showers have plenty of hot water, shelves and hooks.

There is a separate amenities block for children – one of the first we have seen.

The park is peaceful, spacious and has many trees full of birdlife. We loved being woken by birdsong each morning. Richard told us the amenities were cleaned at night and that there was a night patrol in case of any noise. This was something we liked.

Plenty to do

The town is a short walk via the river bank. There are quiet beaches, restaurants and cafes, large grassy picnic areas, and a new shopping centre with a Bi-Lo supermarket on the way into town. Fuel is expensive in town, though, and included a $1.65 fee for using a credit card. Fill up before you arrive in South West Rocks, if possible.

Close to the caravan park is a footbridge leading to Back Beach, a long deserted stretch of beach ideal for those who love to walk.

A new tavern lies at the end of Gordon Young Drive (where the park is located) and opposite this is the main boat ramp on the Macleay River. Also in town are a golf club, sports and bowls club, and all the usual facilities expected of a town of 3000 or so people.

From the town beaches you can see the old Trial Bay Gaol, which is prominent on the hilltop to the south. It is 5km away on a sealed road.

The gaol was built in 1886 as a public works prison and is built from exceptionally hard local granite. Prisoners were to construct a seawall to protect the South West Rocks harbour, but huge seas kept breaking the wall and it was never completed. From 1915 to 1918 it was used as an enemy alien internment camp, housing mainly German residents.

This is a large former prison and we found it impressive, without the creepy feeling of some other former prisons we have visited. It has a commanding position on Laggers Point overlooking Trial Bay and South West Rocks. A walk leads from the prison up and over a hill to a monument and the graves of those who died during internment. Two other graves lie further up the hill. This is a great place to photograph the former prison early in the morning.

The walk continues on to Little Bay and the original prison dam water supply. This small lake had a large duck population when we were there. Another popular attraction is the historic Smoky Cape Lighthouse.

The aforementioned walk leads on around the hilltops to the lighthouse, but for us a better option was to drive the few kilometres. The views from here are magnificent and well worth the short climb up.

Tours of the lighthouse are available. The viewing platform beside the base of the lighthouse is an excellent place for birdwatching. We were fascinated by a hovering falcon and lots of honey-eating birds in the banksia heath.

This is in the Hat Head National Park and there are several walking tracks and a long, secluded beach to explore.

We intended on spending the next day doing long walks here, but that night our electric jug and TV decided to go to electric appliance heaven, so we drove into Kempsey to buy new ones and to explore the surrounding area. On the way back we stopped at Fredo Pies at Frederickton.

The pies from this store are famous in the area and there are 55 varieties.

Some readers may know Denyse is a doctor who has also studied nutrition, so pies are not normally on my menu, but we could not resist buying one each. I ended up having two, a meat and potato and a chicken mornay. I can recommend them both, but I suspect pies are now off my menu for a while.

On our return journey to South West Rocks, we took the 10km detour into Hat Head. We enjoyed exploring the lookout, small secluded beaches and national park walks. Several people were fishing in the inlet and on the rocks and beaches.

A little further on is a fishing co-op, (this is the place to purchase fresh fish and local oysters) and the small fishing village of Jerseyville.

The village has a historic background and the original jetty is still used for mooring trawlers.

All along the NSW north coast we have been aware of the bitou bush taking over the foreshore. This bush has a yellow flower and was first planted as a measure to

re-vegetate the sand dunes by sand-mining companies. It has become a huge pest and in some areas local authorities have attempted biological control (the introduction of a beetle to eat it). They’ve also sprayed and burnt it, followed by digging it out and re-planting native vegetation. It will take a massive effort to eradicate. Denyse and I were impressed by this area. We loved the old Trial Bay Gaol, Smoky Cape Lighthouse, the beaches, national park walks, and the peaceful and bird-filled South West Rocks Tourist Park.

Fast Facts

South West Rocks and Trial Bay are about 110km south of Coffs Harbour and 45km north-east of Kempsey.

South West Rocks Tourist Park is a four-star rated park and a Top Tourist Park.

The park is on Gordon Young Drive, South West Rocks, NSW 2431,

(02) 6566 6264, fax: (02) 6566 5305, email:bookings@southwestrockstourist.com.au, web: www.southwestrockstourist.com.au

Trial Bay Gaol is part of the Arakoon State Conservation Area,

(02) 6566 6168.

By Tony and Denyse Allsop, as featured in Caravan World issue 444, August 2007.