Travellers on the Brand Highway south of Geraldton could easily miss the small seaside town of Dongara. The town is less than a kilometre off the highway, but most of it is hidden in a small dip in the land. Normally people drive past the turnoff, and continue their journey north to Geraldton or south to Perth 370km away.

That’s a pity, since Dongara is a surprisingly pretty town with many historic, scenic and natural points of interest. Although you are not really aware of it while driving along the highway, the sea is just 2km away. In addition, the Irwin River flows into the sea at Dongara, so there are several different environments to explore in the immediate area.

STACKS ON THE MILL

At the turnoff for Dongara, you can’t miss the huge brick and limestone building which towers four storeys high beside the road. This striking edifice is the Royal Steam Roller Flour Mill, though it is usually just called the Old Flour Mill. It was built in 1894 and did indeed use huge steam engines to grind wheat into flour.

The mill closed in 1935 and the building was used as an army camp during WWII. It was acquired by the National Trust in 1975 and subsequently classified for preservation. Today it stands as a proud reminder of Dongara’s past.

In the township there are some even older buildings. The area was initially settled during the 1840s and the local school, police station and courthouse were all built in 1870-71. The old police station and courthouse complex now houses the Irwin Districts Historical Society and Museum, with exhibits relating to justice, shipwrecks and rural life in the 19th century.

The post office next door was built in 1894 to plans by the noted government architect George Temple Poole, who was responsible for planning over 200 buildings in Perth and country WA. The Dongara post office is now the local library and tourist information centre. To explore Dongara’s historic buildings in more detail, you can buy the Dongara Heritage Walk booklet at the information centre. This 1.6km walk includes many local churches, banks, homesteads and cottages.

ON THE AVENUE

But buildings aren’t the only old things to be found in Dongara. In fact the town is best known for its avenue of century-old fig trees along Moreton Terrace. These impressively aged trees give the town a unique character and are the local icon. The locals refer to the trees as friendly neighbours and appreciate the coolness of their shade during summer, though curse when the ripe figs get stuck under their shoes.

The 23 trees were planted along the avenue by Irwin Roads Board in 1906, though a few have been replaced since then. Their huge roots, gnarled trunks and spreading canopies turn the street into a green and leafy tunnel. Along the avenue there are eighteen Moreton Bay Figs and five Port Jackson Figs. These species are a long way from their original home on the east coast, but they seem to be thriving in Dongara.

WALK ON THE WILD SIDE

To see the local flora and fauna, visit Irwin River Estuary Nature Park and Walk Trails. The entrance is in Church Street, less than a kilometre from Moreton Terrace. The trail follows the Irwin River through rolling sand hills and out to the ocean, where the river mouth is usually closed by a natural sandbar. Through winter and spring you can see wildflowers like cockies tongue, native wisteria and camel bush along the track.
You may also see a flock of pelicans floating majestically along the Irwin River. If you want to study the bird life more closely, there are several options readily available. Along the walk there is a bird hide. You can also go to the wooden walkway around the wetlands on the other side of the river, most easily accessed from Ocean Drive. Here there are many pelicans, ducks and other waterbirds, swimming around in groups and completely ignoring human beings.

DOWN TO THE SEA

You are never far from the sea in Dongara. The twin town of Port Denison is only a kilometre away and faces onto a spacious boat harbour leading out into the open sea. The harbour looks tranquil with its mix of fishing and pleasure boats, but the coastline here is more treacherous than you might guess. There is a reef just offshore and it has been the cause of several shipwrecks.

The striking red and white obelisk on the headland overlooking the harbour is a reminder of these shipwrecks. It was built shortly after the wreck of the Swan in 1869. There was originally a second obelisk, which enabled ships to enter the harbour safely by keeping the two markers aligned. That second obelisk is now gone and the remaining one is on Point Leander, which takes its name from the wreck of the brigantine Leander 10km south in 1853. This was the first recorded wreck along the coast and the survivors had to walk the 10km into town.

The obelisk is now called Fisherman’s Lookout and is a memorial to men who have lost their lives at sea. It has a plaque commemorating the wreck of the Leander and another plaque honouring those who surveyed the coastline in the mid 19th century. A further plaque has a map showing the location of the reefs and the different shipwrecks.

The Albatross was also wrecked at the mouth of the Irwin River in 1868. Today there is a Shipwreck Walk along the foreshore at Port Denison. Like the main street of Dongara, the grassy esplanade at Port Denison has a shady avenue of Moreton Bay Fig trees. They were planted in the 1940s and are in a single line. This is a great place to sit and watch the changing colours of the sunset.

DONGARA TOURIST PARK

For our visit to Dongara, we stayed at Dongara Tourist Park which is actually in Port Denison. It is just near Point Leander and you can see the obelisk at the seamen’s memorial from the park. Dongara Tourist Park backs onto South Beach.
Some of the cabins face straight out over the ocean and there are two short walks through the sand hills to the beach. The park has plenty of trees, shady grassed sites and more open sites with concrete slabs. Facilities include parking space for boats and trailers, a very well equipped and tidy indoor camp kitchen, a large pergola-style barbecue area with tables and chairs, and a children’s playground.