It is such a long way to come from almost anywhere, but the coastline of the Kimberley always proves worth it. There are no dull colours here, from sunrise to sunset the reds never bleed into the blues, and everything seems to have a Crayola name to itself: Cape Leveque Red is somewhere between candy apple red and poison arrow frog orange; Indian Ocean Blue is just a translucent cerulean blue.

Nowhere else is the meeting of earth and sea such a visually visceral experience, and there aren’t many places in Australia where the coast is this accessible either. And if you’re putting off the west coast for later in life, don’t waste too much time. If Woodside proceeds with plans to build a natural gas processing hub on James Price Point, about 60km north of Broome, it will surely be the first of many more industrial ventures in this oil and gas rich area. And in this country, natural beauty matters very little in the face of cold hard resources.

BROOME

Broome was first founded in 1880 as a pearling port. Pearls are still a part of life here, but tourism is foremost now due to the stunning beauty of the area.
Try to visit Gantheaume Point, the historic Japanese and Chinese cemeteries, Streeter’s Jetty, the historic Courthouse, and the WWII bombed flying boat wrecks.
The sunsets at famous Cable Beach (named for the Broome to Java telegraph cable laid here in 1889) are magical. Just be aware that the northern half of the beach is clothing-optional, and this just happens to be where the three camel-tour operators take you!

Reddell Beach is another colourful beach. Leave your vehicle at the boat launching ramp near the port, and walk around the point to take in the views of rough, weather-worn red rocks and sparkling water. Often, you’ll have the place to yourself. While here, check the jetty for 10m tides and good fishing – though for that reason, chances of having the jetty to yourself are slim. If you hook onto a trevally here, it will test you out properly.

Try to time your visit for the full moon so that you can witness the “Staircase to the Moon” as the moon rises over the rippled sand.

THE DAMPIER PENINSULA

Visitors to this part of the country usually hear plenty about Broome and its famous Cable Beach, but very little, if anything, on some of the other beautiful beaches, splendid coastal scenery and many other attractions not far north on the Dampier Peninsula.

Not that there’s anything wrong with Broome or Cable Beach, mind you, except perhaps there are usually far too many people, 4WDs and camels, particularly in the middle of the tourist season. But then again you don’t expect to have the place completely to yourself at that time of the year, do you?

Believe it or not, just up the road there is a selection of lovely, white sandy beaches where it is quite likely the only footprints in the sand will be yours – in the middle of the tourist season, too!

The peninsula was named after early British navigator William Dampier, who explored this coastline in 1688. It remains relatively untouched, and in many places is just as attractive and pristine as it was during his visit, for now.

The turn-off from the Broome Highway toward Cape Leveque is 10km out of Broome. The sealed road heading northward unfortunately lasts for only 10km or so before turning into red sandy and corrugations. The road further north is paved again as soon as you enter Aboriginal land. It gives the impression of a test of fire to get to the really beautiful Cape. If you’re willing to brave the corrugations, you needn’t for the entire journey.

About 15km north of the Broome Highway, a turn-off to the west heads back toward the coast. Not far along this stretch is the road to Willie Creek Pearl Farm, a popular spot to have a look at a cultured pearl operation and learn the history of pearling, which has been going on in the waters off Broome for well over 100 years.
Tour bookings, however, are necessary and should be arranged with the tourist centre or other travel outlets in Broome before setting out. The farm also has a lovely range of pearl jewellery for sale.

North from there, Barred Creek (11km) and Quandong (8km further) are popular fishing and camping spots with lovely beaches and bays.

The best of this section of the coast is still to come, as the road continues northward to James Price Point, 14km past Quandong. The coastline becomes dramatic, with deep red pindan sand dune cliffs falling away onto sections of beautiful, white sandy beach. This is the outback coast at its best.

Camping along the cliff tops there, or on lower sections close to the water, is a great experience. Fishing from the beach and in small boats along the coast is almost always very rewarding, with good catches of threadfin salmon, blue bone, snapper, trevally and queenfish just some of the species regularly caught.

Back at your waterfront campsite, you can’t help but admire the beautiful sunsets for which the coastline is renowned. They are every bit as good as those from Cable Beach, but without the camels or crowds.

Following the red coastal cliffs a little further north, the road leads onto Point Coulomb Point and Manari Road (68km off the Broome/Cape Leveque Road). Here, there are even more long sandy beaches, colourful cliffs and excellent fishing spots for anglers.

Along this whole stretch of coastline there are good camping spots, all free camping for a maximum of three days, but there are no facilities provided. Campers must bring their own water, fuel and all other supplies as there are no stores in the vicinity.

If, however, you’re not really into camping out, all of these spots along the coast are within an hour or two’s drive from Broome and make for an ideal day trip.

Northward from there, the well formed, graded track rapidly deteriorates to a little-used narrow, sandy, single lane leading into Coulomb Point Nature Reserve that eventually connects with some of the Aboriginal communities further north.

The best way to get to these communities and the other worthwhile attractions on the Dampier Peninsula, however, is to return to the Broome/Cape Leveque Road and once again head northward.

As this road travels through central inland regions of the peninsula, there is no more coastal scenery until you reach the peninsula’s northern regions, well over 100km away. It is recommended that caravans not be brought north from there.
Approximately 110km northward (off the Broome Highway), the first of Dampier Peninsula’s northern attractions is at the Beagle Bay Aboriginal Community – the well known Sacred Heart Catholic Church.

This beautiful old church is not only famous for its architecture, but also for the lovely altar and surrounds, made from mother of pearl shell – this is truly a wonderful sight and makes a visit to Beagle Bay a real must for travellers visiting the peninsula.

The Beagle Bay community was established by the Pallottine monks, who built the church in 1918 from raw materials found in the area. The monks ran the community for many years.

During WWII, when Japanese fighter planes bombed Broome in March 1942, Aboriginal people were moved north to Beagle Bay and the mission settlement became a refugee camp for the remainder of the war. Today, the community runs its own affairs with limited guidance from the Catholic Church. There is no camping allowed at Beagle Bay.

Further north, Middle Lagoon, 33km off the main road, is one of the peninsula’s most attractive spots. This is a delightful area with sandy beaches. The camp ground, operated by a local Aboriginal family, is on a headland overlooking the bay.

Powered and unpowered sites are available, as are beach shelters and cabins, some of which are self-contained.

Small boats can be launched there and organised guided fishing trips are available. Bookings are essential during peak times.

Continuing further northward, the Aboriginal communities at La Djardarr Bay, Mudnunn, Maddarr and Chile Creek all have camping facilities with a variety of guided tours available, including fishing, mud crabbing and coastal reef and walking trails. Accommodation bookings are essential.

Lombadina, a small Aboriginal community of about 60 residents, has a picturesque village green atmosphere about it. With its large, shady mango trees, tall palms, tidy grounds, a well kept cemetery, well stocked supermarket and its own bakery, Lombadina is definitely worth a look.

Although camping is not allowed there, backpacker-style accommodation and
self-contained units are available. Locally produced art and craft is on sale at the craft shop, where you can also have a cuppa and cake for morning or afternoon tea. There is also an interesting old church made from bush timbers, corrugated iron and lined with paperbark that’s well worth checking out.

High up on the eastern side of the Dampier Peninsula, the One Arm Point Community, with around 400 residents, is the main population centre on the peninsula for the Bardi and Jawi people.

Prior to its establishment on the mainland, this community group was based on nearby Sunday Island. One Arm Point has a well stocked general store and fuel is available.

There is, however, no accommodation or camping. The lovely beaches at One Arm Point look out over the northern waters of King Sound.

The community is well known for its beautiful trochus shell jewellery and aquaculture, and visitors are welcome to call in and have a look. This is also a good spot for a swim and the fishing is reported to be excellent.

As attractive, historic and interesting as all of these side trip destinations off the main Dampier Peninsula road may be, the main prize at the tip of the cape is undoubtedly Cape Leveque, approximately 220km from Broome.

Surrounding the Cape Leveque Lighthouse, built in 1911, the modern, well organised Kooljaman complex offers a wide range of accommodation, including luxurious hillside safari tents, cabins, units and rustic thatched roof beach shelters, each with their own cold shower and barbecue (with wood provided).

The beach shelters, all with lovely views out over the beach, and the Cape Leveque Peninsula, are extremely popular and are an enjoyable novelty.

Warm showers and toilet amenities are only 50m away. In addition, there is a well appointed camping ground, which has a choice of sites that have either coastal views or are set back under tall shady trees.

This is a delightful spot with miles of lovely, clean sandy beaches, a stretch of vividly colourful ocean front, red sand dune cliffs along Western Beach. There is good fishing off the beach or from small boats on the offshore reefs, and you are likely to find a few good sized mud crabs in nearby Hunter Creek.

There is a lovely swimming beach right in front of the main resort and miles of beach walking/combing opportunities in either direction around the cape. Late afternoon and early morning is best for photography around the cliffs, headland and beachfront.

After you’ve taken in a gorgeous sunset view over Western Beach, to cap off your day at Kooljaman, be sure to visit the great restaurant overlooking the cape and bay. It is a splendid spot to enjoy a nice meal and a few drinks.

The scene is akin to those you often see in travel brochures – it is truly idyllic and is one of the best out-of-the-way places you’ll find anywhere in the country – a place that is hard to say goodbye to.