Cooktown, in far north Queensland, is our favourite town in northern Australia. Tucked in alongside a wide sweep of the Endeavour River estuary, the town was born out of the Palmer River gold rush back in the 1870s. Today, even with the advent of the bitumen highway connecting it to places further south, the town has lost none of its charm. The addition of a range of facilities allows people to enjoy the place more easily and for longer.

Once you’ve explored the town and enjoyed its many historical buildings (don’t miss the Cooktown Museum – the best regional museum in Oz, we reckon) here are a few spots around the town you’ll enjoy.

The Endeavour River around Cooktown is wide and shallow, its northern bank protected in the Endeavour River NP and looking much the same as when Captain James Cook beached his ship here for emergency repairs in 1770. But if you head upstream in a small tinny, the river changes dramatically.

Mangroves border the southern edge of the river for much of the way, the tangles mass of roots and branches playing host to mud crabs, jacks and even big crocs. The few narrow creeks that flow into the main stream wind into this green labyrinth to deep holes where barra lurk.

If you’d rather see the river from your 4WD, follow the old Cooktown-Laura railway easement. Here, a bridge once crossed the so called Four-Mile Creek. With its tangle of old pylons there’s always a good chance of catching a barra or a jack.

Following the same railway easement from the small hamlet of Marton (11km from Cooktown by road) will give you access to a few hundred metres of the river, as well as Four-Mile Creek and its pylons. And, upstream from the main road bridge at Marton, the Endeavour River is a narrow, jungle-sided stream totally different to the sprawling sluggish waters found at Cooktown.

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Heading on from Marton, you’ll pass the Endeavour Falls Caravan Park (where you can easily access the river) and 37km from Cooktown, you’ll come to Battle Camp Road. About 5km along this road, you’ll arrive at the delightful Isabella Creek, and just off to the left, Isabella Falls. There are a couple of spots to camp along the edge of the creek not far off the road, but most people stop here just to enjoy the falls and the surrounding country.

A little further along Battle Camp Road, is the turn-off to Starcke Homestead and Cape Melville – a long day’s drive (two days is better) from this point. Much closer, and south of the Starke Homestead, is the access track to the beach south of Cape Flattery. You’ll need a permit from the traditional owners to access this 4WD route. And once on the beach, you can turn north for a long run along the sand to the Cape.

You never know what you’ll find along this beach. The sand is strewn with the flotsam and jetsam from passing ships and the washed up remains of animals. On our last trip we came across dozens of nautilus shells – as well as a croc sunning himself on the sands!

The Cape is also home to one of the biggest sand mining operations in Australia. The resource is expected to last another 300 years, even with the ships continuously loading up at the short jetty located on the headland. A track winds from this front beach over the headland to a protected bay on the north side and this is by far the most favoured camping area around.

South of Cooktown is Helensvale and the Lions Den Hotel. From here, the famous Bloomfield Track leads over the mountains to Daintree. Some say you’ve never been to Cooktown unless you’ve been to the Lions Den Hotel. Built in the 1870s, the old pub hasn’t seen all that much maintenance, but it does see a lot of characters passing by.

Local farmers, tin scratchers, alternate life seekers and the passing parade of tourists all make this a lively spot to enjoy a cold beer or a cool drink. Their pizzas aren’t bad either, and the camping down the back, on the edge of the Annan River, is pleasant.

On the way to the Lions Den and about 14km south of Cooktown, is the dirt road to Archer Point. This high-domed bluff was once crowned with a WWII signal station, but today a large, ugly square box acts as a lighthouse for the passing sea traffic.

The old wartime wharf just south of the point is a good spot to cast a line. There are also a couple of excellent bush campsites, ideal for a day or two, nearby.

I know, if you are anything like us, you’ll fall under the spell of Cooktown!

Getting Afloat

If you haven’t got your own boat there are a number of operators who will take you fishing on the river to catch a mud crab or a barra, or out around the reefs to haul in coral trout, a Spanish mackeral, or even something bigger.

Check out:

Cooktown Cruises & Boat Rentals, ph: (07) 4069 5712; www.cairnsunlimited.com/cooktowncruises.htm

Gone Fishing Charters, ph: (07) 4069 5980; www.fishingcooktown.com

Cooktown Catch-A-Crab, ph: (07) 4069 6289; www.cooktowncatchacrab.com.au

More Info

Ron and Viv Moon’s Cape York: an Adventurer’s Guide, has comprehensive information on Cooktown and the surrounding area.

Fast Facts

Before you leave, contact:

Cooktown Information Centre, Nature’s Powerhouse, Botanical Gardens, Finch Bay, Road, Cooktown QLD 4895, Ph: 1800 174 895, www.naturespowerhouse.com.au

Distance from nearest city: Via the inland road Cairns to Cooktown is 331km and via the coastal road Cooktown to Cairns is 250km. But after the first 28km from Cooktown the road is unsealed for 80km to Cape Tribulation, and may be closed during the wet season.

Best time to visit: April to December, when rainfall is at its lowest and the maximum average temperature is around 27 degrees C.

By Ron Moon, as featured in Camper Trailer Australia, issue 28