Kangaroo Valley, inland from Nowra, NSW
Happy valley. Green, gourmet and historic are three words that come to mind when describing Kangaroo Valley, inland from Nowra, NSW. Â
Is there anything more wonderful than a green valley? With much of Australia gripped by the worst drought in living memory, Kangaroo Valley’s lush emerald pastures feel positively life-affirming.
Kangaroo Valley is green in other ways too. The sign at the entrance to this picturesque National Trust village proudly announces it is “Mainland Australia’s first plastic bag free town” (first prize goes to Coles Bay in Tas).
Located 2.5 hours south of Sydney and inland from Nowra, Kangaroo Valley is one of NSW’s hidden gems and, despite its relative proximity to Sydney, feels like a hidden valley. Ringed by towering sandstone cliffs and waterfalls, including magnificent Fitzroy Falls and Carrington Falls, the valley is surrounded by lush rainforest and rolling dairy country.
From the Southern Highlands it’s a gorgeous drive down Moss Vale Road, and from Nowra it’s an equally scenic drive over Cambewarra Mountain.
Originally home to the Wodi Wodi people, European settlers were attracted by fertile farmland, abundant timber and fresh water. Irish settlers used Kangaroo River’s crystal-clear waters to make their moonshine whiskey, a tradition that continued at least until the 1920s.
WALK, PADDLE AND FISH
Today it’s all about the outdoor lifestyle. Options abound for paddling down the Kangaroo River. Intrepid outdoor types can take a three-day guided safari down the Shoalhaven Gorge with Kangaroo Valley Safaris, but for day-trippers who want to relax and enjoy the scenery, the company will take you to various locations to explore the valley for yourself and pick you up again.
You can try one of the many walking trails that cater for all levels of fitness. Most centre on Bendeela campground and picnic area. Alternatively it’s a short drive to Red Rocks Nature Reserve, another picnic area with stunning views of the valley.
Golfers can pit themselves against the challenging Kangaroo Valley Golf Club, a Jack Newton-designed, 18-hole golf course set among bushland in a natural amphitheatre overlooking the valley’s majestic rocky escarpment, then drown their sorrows at the clubhouse afterwards.
  |
  |
LIVING HISTORY
Hampden Bridge, the valley’s most famous landmark, is the only surviving suspension bridge from NSW’s colonial period. Opened in 1898, it was an outstanding engineering achievement for its time. Its castellated towers at either end give it a medieval look that makes for a grand entrance to town coming from the Southern Highlands side.
Despite being National Trust-classified, Kangaroo Valley’s main street, Moss Vale Road, has a lived-in feel, thanks to several working historic buildings like Kangaroo Valley Public School, the magnificent court house (now the local police station), the Church of the Good Shepherd and the post office. Otherwise it’s a delightful wander past 1870s heritage shopfronts transformed into cafes, galleries and gift shops.
If you are interested in early Australian history, the Pioneer Farm Museum next to Hampden Bridge is worth a look. The dairy, forge and farmhouse built in 1865 contain period furnishings and are maintained by the local historical society.
GOURMET GOODIES
Surrounded by fertile pastureland and close to the coast, Kangaroo Valley is firmly on the gourmet trail. The main street is brimming with eateries featuring local produce. Try Blind Toucan Café and gawk at the old newspapers lining the walls. Don’t miss The Fudge House (also the information centre) which is a Kangaroo Valley icon.
The Friendly Inn Hotel is a popular spot for lunch, with pub staples as well as modern additions such as Thai stir fries and salt and pepper squid. The beer garden out the back has impressive views of the surrounding hills and you might be visited by some of the region’s abundant bird life, like crimson rosellas and the occasional lyrebird, their tails fanned like peacocks.
It’s a short drive south-west of town to Old Woodfires Restaurant & Bar, open for lunch and dinner and dishing up modern Australian cuisine. While you’re there, take a squiz next door at the award-winning Galeria Aniela with its quirky outdoor sculpture park.
  |
  |
SCENIC DRIVES
The surrounding area has plenty of magnificent scenic drives. For some of the best views, drive up to Cambewarra Mountain en route to Nowra and stop at the lookout which offers 360° views of the coast and Southern Highlands.
From the village, it’s only 15km north-west to waterfall territory. Fitzroy Falls is one of NSW’s great waterfalls, spectacular even in these drought-stricken times.
From here you can venture into the Southern Highlands, checking out gems like historic Berrima, Exeter and atmospheric Bundanoon and Bowral. Or head east towards Robertson, the potato capital of Australia, for a peek at The Big Potato, or check out the brand new Illawarra Fly, an aerial tree walk with sweeping views of the Shoalhaven.
Kangaroo valley
Kangaroo Valley is 159km south of Sydney via the Princes Highway and 19km inland from Nowra. For general information, visit www.kangaroovalleytourist.asn.au
THINGS TO DO
- Picnic by Hampden Bridge.
- Visit the village galleries, craft and antique shops.
- Enjoy a drink at the historic Friendly Inn.
- Check out nearby Fitzroy Falls in Morton National Park.
- Drive to Cambewarra Mountain Lookout for great views of the Shoalhaven and Jervis Bay.
- Spend a few hours at Bendeela picnic ground beside Kangaroo River for canoeing and bushwalking.
- Hire canoes and go for a paddle on the river with Kangaroo Valley Safaris, (02) 4465 1502, www.kangaroovalleycanoes.com.au
- Visit the Pioneer Farm Museum, a unique look at the valley’s past with original buildings, photos and artefacts, open Friday-Monday 10am-4pm (11am-3pm in winter), (02) 4465 1306, www.kangaroovalleymuseum.com
WHERE TO STAY
- The Holiday Haven offers a full range of accommodation in a riverside setting, (02) 4465 1310, www.holidayhaven.com.au/kangaroovalley
- Glenmack Park in the heart of Kangaroo Valley village has accommodation and campgrounds with beautiful valley views, (02) 4465 1372, www.glenmack.com.au
By Julie Ihle and Tourism NSW, as featured in Caravan World issue 462, February 2009.